MY 21-DAY UGANDAN ADVENTURE

I first went to Uganda in July of 2005 which is where I first met and used the travel services of Byamukama Joseph, the proprietor of Trust Tours and Travel who had been recommended to me by a very close Ugandan friend. Subsequently five of us from the UK used Joseph to plan our itinerary which, over 14 days and with many exciting adventures and experiences which included climbing in the beautiful Rwenzori Mountains (Mountains of the Moon) in Western Uganda to a height of 15000ft a.s.l. white river rafting down the River Nile near Lake Victoria (its source) and tracking Mountain Gorillas in the Virunga mountains in neighbouring Rwanda.
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We had an unforgettable and amazing time and, with the exception of some poor food on the mountain climb (which Joseph was subsequently very upset about having pre-paid for and arranged it) everything went as planned.

It was only natural for me therefore, when planning my second trip to Uganda in Aug/Sept of 2007, that I should again use the services of Joseph, asking him this time to arrange a 21 day itinerary to cover some of the places, scenes and activities that I had not had time to do on my first visit.

On this second visit I was to be on my own and Joseph and I spent several months planning, changing and refining the itinerary and I was overjoyed when Joseph informed me that he had decided to accompany me for the whole duration of the trip, taking three weeks out from his Office.

What followed turned out to be everything I had hoped for. Leaving Kampala on the first day we drove the long road journey heading north west to the Murchison Falls National Park where I had my first glimpse of the stunning Murchison Falls before then travelling throughout the Park viewing wild animals and exotic birds. The following day was spent cruising up the River Nile to the base of the Falls.

We then journeyed south to the Kabale National Park and over the next few days tracked in the Kabale National Forest looking for (and finding) Chimpanzees and many other species of wildlife. From there we then drove through the beautiful Semiliki Valley (known as The Valley of Eden) and here, with the obligatory Guide and UWA (Uganda Wildlife Authority) Ranger I trekked through the Semiliki Forest where, amongst many primates and birds we came to the volcanic Semiliki Hot Springs where the hot water boiled, hissed and bubbled out of the ground rising in clouds of steam – an amazing sight. We were preceded back along the boardwalk back into the Forest by a line of between 20 and 30 baboons!!

Our next stay was in the Queen Elizabeth National Park where over the course of the next few days and on morning and evening safaris we saw an amazing variety of wildlife - elephants, buffalo, leopards, baboons, water buck, zebras, giraffes, impalas and antelope and the most exciting sight - the tree climbing lions of Ishasha (they really do climb to about 20 to 30ft up into the trees to shelter from the heat of the sun). Whilst in the Q.E. National Park I took a half day cruise by motor launch up the Kazinga Channel (which links Lakes George and Edward) and from the smooth serenity of the open launch I was able to view more wildlife - herds of elephants, huge Nile crocodiles and many many species of birds – Kingfishers, Ibis, Grey Lorraine and, of course, my favourites – the beautiful Fish Eagles.

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My accommodation in the Q.E. National Park was at the Mweya Safari Lodge, arguably the most luxurious Lodge in Uganda (and where I watched a large thatched Lodge being built for my own country’s Queen – England’s Queen Elizabeth who, as Head of the Commonwealth, was to shortly open CHOGM (Commonwealth Heads Of Government Meeting) in Kampala and afterwards stay in this Lodge now being built).

The memories of the following few days will remain with me for the rest of my life as we drove to Bwindi where I was to go tracking in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (a World Heritage Site and the oldest primeval forest in Uganda) to view Mountain Gorillas. Being surrounded by a family of mountain gorillas and looking into their eyes is an experience that no one who is fortunate enough to be able to do it ever forgets. They are truly amazing animals, especially the huge Silverback that is always the leader of the family group and I felt hugely privileged to have witnessed, at such a close proximity and in such a spectacular environment, these still endangered Primates.

Another memorable experience was to go on a guided village walk where I met a traditional village Healer, watched alcohol being brewed from bananas, visited craft shops and danced with the Batwa pygmy tribe.

Because my particular travel passion is hiking Joseph had arranged for me to hike up Mt. Sabinyo, at 3645 metres, one of the highest mountains in the chain of mountains known as the Virungas, and what a beautiful climb it was, on a glorious sunny day in the company of a Guide and the obligatory UWA armed Ranger (for potentially dangerous animal encounters!!).

The following day we received news from the BBC World Service that fighting had broken out between the Rebel Congolese Army and the Ugandan Military precisely in the area within the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo) where, in two days time, I was to start my planned ascent of Mt. Nyiragongo, an active volcano, to reach and look down and into a crater of molten lava. It was decided it would be too dangerous for me to do this so Joseph immediately made some calls on his mobile phone to rearrange my schedule.

The change meant that for a few nights I was able to stay on the small paradise island of Bushara, one of several islands on the beautiful Lake Bunyonyi, the second largest lake in Uganda with a depth of over 900 metres. After all the travel and excitement of the previous days Bushara Island was an idyllic and utterly peaceful place for me to indulge in my second favourite hobby – Photography. It was truly a wonderful place to stay, to either take local boat excursions across the Lake or just to “Chill” out.

After Lake Bunyonyi we travelled to the Uganda/Rwanda border control at Katuna and crossed into Rwanda, our aim being to visit the Genocide Memorial Centre in Rwanda’s capital city Kigali.
To walk round this centre and to see and hear about the terrible and ferocious genocide of Rwandans in 1994 was a very moving experience for both me and Joseph (who was visibly moved). This shameful episode in Africa’s long and turbulent history was yet another example of man’s gross inhumanity to man and left me with feelings of shame and fearfulness for the future of mankind.

 

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We then drove to the Mburo National Wildlife Park, famed for its herds of Zebras and I spent two wonderful nights there in a “Banda” (a small thatched round building but spotlessly clean) appropriately named the “Zebra House”. At night and shining a torch into the darkness it is an amazing sight and experience to be entirely surrounded by the reflected light in the luminous eyes of zebras, impalas and waterbucks!!

It was after Mburo that another unexpected event happened that was to once again force a further change to our itinerary. We had planned to spend our last two nights on Ssese Island at a beach Resort before then continuing the ferry journey to Murchison Bay just outside Uganda’s capital of Kampala but on arrival at the ferry terminal we were told that the ferry’s engine had broken down and that the spare parts would not be available for at least three days, so once again Joseph’s mobile phone came into use to rearrange the time I had left. We then started the long road journey back to Kampala stopping en-route on the Equator line for photo opportunities.

Even though I missed out on the Volcano climb and the stay on Ssese Island (both through no fault of Joseph’s whatsoever) I was able to enjoy some wonderful hospitality by being Joseph’s guest at his house in Kampala and being shown around this busy and vibrant City..

So again, a truly unforgettable three weeks of travelling throughout Uganda, seeing it as few tourists ever do, in the company of Joseph, a very knowledgeable, articulate and unfailingly helpful tour Guide. He took me to remote mountain and valley villages where often a “Muzungu” (respectful Swahili term for “white person) had never been and where I would be the subject of much curiosity at first and then, after Joseph’s introductions, welcomed with extreme friendliness and hospitality (especially the children who thought it was fun and very exciting to shake the hand of a “Muzungu”!!).

Of all the African countries I have visited, Uganda, the “Switzerland of Africa”, with its hundreds and hundreds of terraced and cultivated hills, its mountains, lakes, valleys, forests, tea and coffee plantations and above all its Wildlife, well protected and maintained by the UWA is for me the most beautiful, verdant, friendly and welcoming country of them all.

That I will return one day I have no doubt and that when I do so I will once again call upon the services of Joseph at Trust Tours & Travel, I also have no doubt.

If anyone reading this article would like more information on any of the things I have mentioned I am always available to help and can be contacted on my email address ramblingroy@ntlworld.com

Roy Hannell “Mzee Babu Poa” - Swahili for Old man and grandfather!!!